Saturday, May 16th, 2015
Waking up bright and early on my first morning in Galicia (bright and early for me on the first day overseas is actually 10:00 a.m.!), I had a list of things to do before grabbing my rental car and heading out to meet my friend José from Turismo Verde de Galicia (Turvegal) in another part of Galicia.
The first order of business was to get a Spanish SIM card. In general, one can get by just fine using wi-fi (pronounced “wee-fee“) in Spain, as it is readily available in most bars/cafés and hotels (just ask nicely for the ¨clave¨ or password), and even at the airport. However, since I was going to be walking alone for at least 87 miles through some unpopulated areas, and traveling by myself across the length of Galicia, I wanted to have data on my phone to be able to be in touch at all times.
Having never changed a SIM card in a phone, I was a bit apprehensive about the process. But after some internet research on the process in general, and specifically in Spain, of the main service providers in Galicia, I landed on Orange as having good coverage in the areas I’d be walking and a decent plan, price-wise (Vodafone and Movistar are two other popular companies in Galicia). As it happened, the Orange store was right across the pedestrian street (Calle Real) from where I planned to have breakfast (which may or may not have contributed to the decision). Since it was after 10 a.m. by the time I got over there, data came before churros. A very nice lady at the Orange store patiently explained their process and plans and hooked me up with a Spanish SIM card (and a Spanish telephone number) with 2 GB of data for €20, which included a €15 ‘credit’ that went against the small charges I incurred when making phone calls. In the end, I re-upped for another 2 GB when mine ran out about 4 days before the end of my trip (in Padrón), where I paid another €11 to get 2 GB added. In all, it cost me €31 for two full weeks of being online whenever and wherever I wanted. If you were following along with me on Instagram during this trip, the posts from the middle of the forest were actually posted from the middle of the forest. For me, it was a great deal. I still have the SIM card, so when I return to Galicia I can pay online (www.orange.es) in advance for some data and be able to be online as soon as I arrive. With Orange, my SIM card remains good for 12 months from the last re-charge. When it was time to switch the Spanish SIM for my US SIM on the flight out of Spain, I was at first at a loss since I wasn´t traveling with a paper clip (the tool used at the phone store to eject the SIM). After a bit of pondering, I came up with the solution … the post from one of my stud earrings! Worked like a charm and when I landed in the US, I was back on Verizon like normal.
All connected, I was finally ready for my favorite Spanish breakfast: Churros con Chocolate!
Two iconic places! Bonilla a la Vista to feed the body and Sargadelos to feed the soul – such beautiful things!
But wait! What’s this? The Sargadelos store is right next door and already open? Why, yes … maybe I could pop in for a quick browse. Sargadelos is a Galician ceramics manufacturer that deserves a whole post of its own (I’ll get to it, I promise). In the meantime, check out the storefront and some of the pendants).
Sargadelos – all manner of ceramics from jewelry to coffee / tea sets, serving dishes, whole sets of china, lamps, you name it and they probably make it. Amazing quality and beauty.
Sargadelos – a classic!
I already had the one in the middle, second from the top, that I purchased last year on the English Route. These are all meant to ward against something specific. Mine wards against “Those who make work more difficult than it needs be.” I love it!
These are from another line. The animal motifs scare me a bit!
Finally! Seated at Bonilla a la Vista!
If you’ve never had Spanish hot chocolate, just imagine making homemade chocolate pudding and pouring yourself a cup of the hot mixture before it sets up. That’s it. Thick, rich and chocolaty. And just begging to have hot fresh churros dunked into it. Is this starting to sound dirty?? It’s an experience, I’ll tell you!
At Bonilla a la Vista, you order how many churros you want to accompany your chocolate. This day, I chose 4. On a previous visit I ordered 3 and left wanting more. This was perfect! All of the energy I needed to keep going in my action packed day.
Ahhhhh …. churros con chocolate!
And now for a walk back through the old part of town, and on my way to the Riazor fútbol (soccer) stadium to get a ticket for Sunday’s big match against Levante!
The Obelisk
Map of A Coruna
Riazor Beach – looking in the direction of the Torre de Hercules
Riazor Beach – looking in the direction of Estadio Riazor!
I had checked online a few weeks before to confirm the ticket booth hours on Saturday, so imagine my surprise and extreme disappointment at seeing the sign (below) that the ticket booth was closed. My plan was to leave Coruña shortly after purchasing my ticket so I could return on Sunday just in time for the game (with ticket in hand!). Needless to say, this unexpected closure threw a big wrench into that plan!
I met a very nice couple in the parking lot who offered to use their season ticket status to get me a ticket, but the ticket booths (even the one dedicated for season ticket holders) were all closed. It was an extremely lovely gesture on their part, just one of many examples of wonderful people I met on this trip.
All was not lost. Since I had some time, I went around to the DéporTienda – team shop! Had to get all equiped for the big game tomorrow!
Mural on Estadio Riazor
Dépor swag – Forza Dépor!
Spanking new Dépor tshirt and scarf. You’ll be seeing more of these in the future!
Next on the agenda was to visit the Museo de Belas Artes for the wonderful exhibit “O Primeiro Picasso”, which documented Pablo Picasso’s time in A Coruña during his formative years of 9 – 13 years old. It was extremely interesting both from the perspective of seeing some of Picasso’s earliest works (including homework and a note from a teacher) but also seeing what the city was like at that time (1891 – 1895). Excellent exhibit. And because it was the weekend of Galicia’s Dia Das Letras holiday, admission was free (thanks, Xunta de Galicia!).
Excellent exhibit!
Beautiful museum – Museo Belas Artes
There is another museum in Coruña in the house where Picasso actually lived, which I did not visit this time: Casa Museo Picasso.
A blog I follow via Instagram, Mis Lutier, had mentioned this quaint cafe, Miss Maruja. It was located just around the corner from the museum, so a perfect spot to get a bite of lunch.
Miss Maruja – A Coruña
As you can see, I’m delighted by this sentiment: “The first 40 years of childhood are the most difficult” … how true!
Lunch: A toasted slice of really good Galician bread topped with melted cheese and jamón serrano. Perfect!
View of Riazor beach and stadium on the walk back to the hotel.
Modernismo / Art Nouveau buildings in the old town. In varying states of disrepair …
This stately place is in excellent repair.
Back again through the Obelisco Plaza, right around the corner from my hotel, and across from the Jardines de Méndez Nuñez.
So, one last stop at Hotel Lois to gather my things, and to lament to the fellow checking me out of the hotel about my bad luck with the fútbol tickets. Naturally, he and one of the restaurant patrons were convinced that the poor American lady just didn’t understand where to go. I produced the photo above showing the posted notice, and they were also stymied that tickets weren’t being sold the day before the last home game of the season (not to mention that it was a key game in determining the team’s relegation status!). Nonetheless, they wished me luck getting a ticket the following day and I was off by taxi to the airport to pick up my Avis rental car:
Fiat 500! Ready to roll!
And so I was off to Vila de Cruces to meet up with José of Turismo Verde de Galicia as the Saturday adventure continued!
Bonilla a la Vista
Calle Real, 54, A Coruña, Spain
Miss Maruja
Calle Zalaeta 20, A Coruña, Spain
Sargadelos
Calle Real, 56, A Coruña, Spain
Orange
Calle Real, 63, A Coruña, Spain
Turismo Verde de Galicia
www.facebook.com/TurismoVerdedeGalicia.Turvegal
www.paseargalicia.com
www.twitter.com/turvegal
www.instagram.com/turvegal
My Life On Vacation Everyday 